Out of all the major wine countries in Europe, why is Portugal so lost to us? The average American wine lover can reel off a bevy of French regions, touch down in Italy for Chianti and Barolo, recall a glass of Rioja or sherry, and even note that Germany has its Rieslings. But mention Portugal and the result is a puzzled look. Then, wait: Isn’t that fizzy pink stuff Portuguese? In the funny bottle? Mateus? Right. That one.

No shade on Mateus; if you’re after cheap, fizzy, pink, and sweet, it’s as good a choice as any. But it no more defines Portuguese wine than Bud Light defines beer. This fascinating country’s wines span a vast range of styles, and, in the hands of the current generation of ambitious winemakers, quality has soared. Consider: Do you think of Vinho Verde as a super-simple white to drink ice-cold in the summer? That may be, but try Anselmo Mendes’ versions. There’s complexity and deliciousness to be had in Vinho Verde you might never have guessed. Holding onto 
memories of chunky reds from the hot plains of Alentejo? Try Catarina Vieira’s vivid bottlings from Herdade do Rocim. Or look to Bairrada or Dão, regions you may have never even heard of. I’d say it’s time to fix that situation.